California’s winter storm window is opening wider. And out in the North Pacific, the wave height numbers are getting downright ridiculous.
A succession of powerful storms—dubbed a “parade” by forecasters—is funneling atmospheric rivers toward the West Coast, bringing soaking rain, howling wind, and another round of enormous surf. The latest social-media forecasts cite seas reaching 53 feet far offshore, though that figure hasn’t been independently confirmed.
Beyond Weather warned in a Facebook post that “A storm is expected to rapidly intensify about 1200 miles off our coast.” The developing lows are expected to churn the Gulf of Alaska and send long-period northwest swell hurtling toward California.
FOX Weather describes a “relentless stretch of atmospheric rivers” affecting the Pacific Northwest, with the moisture stream gradually shifting south. Western Washington could receive five to eight inches of rain or more, while a weakening system pushes into the Bay Area and Central Valley this weekend.
And what about the surf?
SURFER previously reported forecasts of 30-to-40-foot breakers along exposed Northern California beaches. Now the National Weather Service has issued high-surf warnings: 25-to-35-foot breaking waves are forecast for parts of Humboldt and Mendocino counties Friday into Saturday, with 25-to-30-foot surf possible around San Francisco.
The NWS also added the golden rule: “Never turn your back on the ocean!”
Significant offshore wave heights could reach 25 to 30 feet Saturday, according to the agency. Those are averages of the highest third of waves—not the same thing as a reported 53-foot individual wave far out at sea.
For big-wave surfers, Maverick’s is the obvious question mark. Could this produce the season’s first serious session? Maybe, if swell direction, local winds and conditions cooperate. But giant seas don’t automatically equal rideable waves.
The National Weather Service isn’t mincing words: “The risk of drowning is very high this weekend.” Officials warn of sneaker waves, rip currents, coastal erosion and flooding worsened by elevated tides.
And this is only the beginning. Another powerful swell could arrive Monday.
California’s winter wave machine is switching on. Admire the spectacle—but from a safe distance. Unless, of course, you’re of the XXL skill level ilk.
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