Can you remember the first time you rode a wave? Who was there? What happened? And how is it affecting your future? What was it like growing up in Hawaii?
I can’t remember my first wave exactly, but the first memory I have of surfing was probably with my dad, tandem surfing at Launiupoko on the west side of Maui. I was about two at the time, and I remember being so little that my arms couldn’t even reach around the sides of the board.
The first time I remember standing up on my own was in Kihei on a sushi board. My mom was filming and my dad was pushing me in, and I remember that was a big turning point for me. All those positive memories have given me a deep love for the sport and made me want to pursue surfing. Growing up in Hawaii, we went to the beach almost every day, and I was able to meet friends who I would later go on to compete against.
What is surfing to you: a sport, a job, or a lifestyle?
For me, surfing is a passion, a sport, and a little bit of a job. I really just do it for the passion of it. Surfing is a way for me to express myself and just be free. I’m the happiest I could be when I’m surfing. The things that come along with it—like traveling the world, getting clothes, or winning competitions—are just a bonus. I love competing, so it’s a sport and a passion combined.
How often do you surf? If you didn’t surf, what would you do with your time?
Compared to a lot of my friends who are homeschooled, I surf way less. I go to a full-time school with a lot of homework, so I probably surf four to five days a week. It’s kind of a good thing because I don’t think I’ll get burnt out as fast on the competitions. I’m still super stoked for even the smallest events. When I’m not surfing, I’m probably doing homework. If I didn’t surf at all, I would spend more time on schoolwork and probably do another ocean-related activity.
Let’s talk surf. Is being in the tube your happy place? Why? What’s your take on surf adventures, properly waxing your board, using the channel, and crowd etiquette?
I love being in the barrel, but I wouldn’t say it’s my happy place. My happy place is when I land a massive air or an insane turn in front of my friends and see them all surprised. When that happens, I’m the happiest person in the world.
My take on traveling is that it’s probably one of the coolest things ever. It’s really positive for surfers to go see different cultures and waves.
As for properly waxing your board, everyone has a personal preference, but it annoys me when people only wax where their feet go. I wax my board all the way to the nose because I’ve lost heats in the past because my foot slipped on an un-waxed section when I was trying to land an air.
Being from Lahaina Harbor and Pavilions, I think it’s really important to know how to use the channel. It’s always really annoying when you’re on a wave and people are paddling out through the impact zone and getting in your way.
Finally, with crowd etiquette, it’s so important. When everyone uses it, sessions are so much more fun. When people are being “eggy,” it just puts everyone in a bad mood.
Can you list your three favorite surf spots and why?
My first favorite surf spot would be Lahaina Harbor. A lot of my progression came from surfing there. The wave is a perfect wave pool, and it’s been cool to get back there after the fires.
My second favorite spot is Ho’okipa. There’s almost always something there, and it’s good for practicing turns and airs. People say if you can surf at Ho’okipa, you can surf anywhere else.
My third favorite is a “secret spot.” It’s a spot in town that’s really good for airs. The winds are perfect, and no one really surfs it. My mom doesn’t want me to go because it’s really sharky and there are a lot of jellyfish, but it’s probably my favorite wave in the world, even though it sucks.
Who are your three favorite surfers and why?
My first favorite is Uncle Jado from Pavilions at Ho’okipa. He probably has the best style on the island. My number two pick is a tie between Matt Meola and Albee Layer. They’ve both immensely progressed surfing in both big waves and airs. I grew up watching their movies and probably memorized the soundtrack to their film Attractive Distractions.
My third favorite surfer is also a tie between Gabriel Medina and Yago Dora. If I had to pick one, it would probably be Medina. I love how explosive his surfing is. His heat strategy, competitiveness, and aggression in a contest are something I definitely look up to.
What are your thoughts on Kelly Slater, John John Florence, Jamie O’Brien, and Jack Robinson? Are you particular about your style as well as your performance? How important is style to you?
Kelly Slater is the G.O.A.T. I just wish that when he got a wildcard into a WSL event, he would ride some of his vintage boards. John John Florence is definitely a top-three surfer of all time. I feel like if he never had his injuries, he would have around five world titles by now. Jamie O’Brien is someone I grew up watching in his vlogs. Jack Robinson is a cool surfer, and his barrel-riding technique is some of the best in the world.
I personally am not really particular or careful about my own style. I think it comes naturally. My opinion on the importance of style is that if it’s not coming naturally, you shouldn’t be doing it. You can tell surfers who try to be stylish from those who actually are. Style makes everyone’s surfing unique, and I don’t think you should change it. It’s just like your personality—you shouldn’t change who you are to be anyone else. It’s the same with surfing.
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