I’m a self-transplanted Texan living in Los Angeles, the city of dreams for almost everybody here; even those born and raised in this sun kissed and bedazzled place. Los Angeles offers a coastline rimmed in Pacific blue churned white, as waves gather and break against the sand. A paradise for some. A place of wonder and found communities for others.
One evening I was running on the beach in Santa Monica. When a goddess swooped into view riding ocean waves. Loc’d hair flying out behind her as she and the mat she rode crested a wave and then dropped out of sight. On the beach, I stopped mid-stride. Searching for this mythic being, a black woman surfing the waves. I mean, I’d heard about them, while traveling outside of the country, but had never seen a black woman surfing. Like, I’d never seen a black mermaid. So as far as I was concerned, that day I was seeing a myth. Being given a gift.
I pondered this in a split – second interlude, when out of the waves she strode, Mary, in a wetsuit dripping ocean tears silhouetted by a setting sun. A warrior, a goddess, a mother and a journalist. All of this I learned later. But then, I watched as she exchanged her mat for a surf board and ran back out to sea to ride the waves. She was real.
In that exchange I decided that I wanted to be her, or more correctly, I wanted to surf. To have the kind of relationship with the ocean where I felt like I belonged to it, and it also belonged to me. As much as anything wild and vast and unknowable can belong to anyone. But I’ve discovered that the Ocean and beaches are not to be owned, they are to be shared. To be lived in. They are places of community.
As it turned out, through Mary, I met The BSC – The Black Surfer’s Collective. A group dedicated to creating a safe and empowering space where everyone can access, enjoy, and connect with the ocean. We like to shout out and live by our slogan – Diversity in the Line Up. In the 10+ years since I’ve been a member, the group has become a 501C3 organization with strong local ties and support. As well as an organization with an international calling card in countries with a population of people of color who surf.
Related: Why Community-First Surf Events Like A Great Day In The Stoke Matter So Much
So, we are growing and creating a different mythology. One founded on free surf lessons for anyone who wants to be stoked. Or shacked, or who simply want to float on the waves. We care about the beach and the environmental impact we have on this natural resource, so we teach this too. Working to preserve its healing energy. To that end, we offer surf therapy sessions to women and first responders.
Additionally, we provide a free lunch with all of our sessions, and we partner with other organizations to provide swimming lessons, camping trips, or historical information about our local surf community. We are now old enough to have history. It feels good. Surfing is a life hack. I learned this today from Jake Howard, Editor-In-Chief at Surfer Magazine. He introduced me to this lyric from Kyle Rapps.
But on this coast, the best coast, we’re having a Wave-A-Thon on November 8, 2026, from 9:00 AM – 1:00 PM at the Inkwell on Santa Monica Beach. We’re raising money to continue to be able to give free access to all of our programs in 2027. Please donate if anything I’ve said resonates. We’d really appreciate it. Also, please join us on the beach and ride some waves. We’d love to share paradise, wonder, and community with you.
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