It was a beautiful fall day in the Basque Country as I spoke with Kepa Acero watching the waves break out front of Shelter Bar in Zarautz. As one of the world’s most well-versed surf explorers, naturally, our conversation revolved around travel and the change of the landscapes, lineups, and culture with the passing of time.
“The first time I went to Morocco was in ’97,” says Kepa, “I remember standing on the cliff at Imsouane and seeing the wave. There was no one out. Not a single person. We couldn’t believe it.”
It was in one of these trips that he met a young surfer named Yassine, aka Snoopy Style, who would end up joining him for another adventure some 15 years later. This reunion is the subject of the film “Kingdom of the Evening”.
The film gives a scope of the dramatic change that came with the explosion of surf tourism, leaving once quiet fishing villages almost unrecognizable with cafes, hotels, and surf schools with their seemingly endless quiver of soft tops. Rather than see the glass as half empty, the celebration comes in the form of seeing that locals like Snoopy have their own surf guiding businesses and can live within their passion for the surf.
Long before seeing this film, Snoopy had found his way into my Instagram feed thanks to his unique surf style that has made him a local celebrity in Taghazout. Even without ever having met him, you can tell that he’s the type of surfer you would never forget.
@corentin_lecroqueur
@ayoub.abouizza
Surfers have been going to Morocco for decades and, for much of that time, there was plenty to go around. The change came in the form of the bizarre trinity of WiFi, Instagram, and digital nomads. The main hubs of Taghazout and Imsouane are, to put it lightly, very crowded.
@corentin_lecroqueur
For anyone who has been to Imsouane in the the last 10 years, it’s hard to imagine the large bay and famous peeling wave completely empty. In the years since that first visit, Kepa has made many trips to Morocco and farther afield to countries like Gabon and Angola, not to mention, plenty of other spots he’s kept to himself.
“Natxo (Gonzalez) and I have some secret spots, still today. We’ve filmed them, but never released the footage it’s, how you say, our little secret.” Kepa laughs and adds, “Today is very different, people want to film and share everything. Even the spots you’re not supposed to film.”
@hakimi_surf_experience
With over 1,800 miles of Atlantic coastline, there’s still plenty of empty waves. Most budget tourists don’t have a car and stay close to the established hubs, leaving lots of room to explore if you know where to look. If planning a trip to Morocco, consider hitting up Snoopy for a proper surf adventure in his Land Rover Defender.
Related: Safi: The World’s Best Wave That Was Kept Secret For Decades