In the opening scene of episode two of Swell Diaries, we see a giant wave forming underneath the dark grey skies that are common at Mavericks. It’s a scene nothing like the classic surf dream of 6-foot waves, sunny skies, azure water, and palm trees on shore. It’s downright ominous and terrifying.
On that wave is Miguel Blanco, who is no stranger to the giant waves of Nazaré, but this was his first time surfing Mavericks. He makes the huge drop and outruns the massive avalanche of whitewater as long as he can, until he’s finally swallowed and subjected to a washing machine-like spin cycle most of us will never know, nor could ever survive.
His big wave training served him well as he was pushed to his limits with the initial shock and subsequent hold down that barely gave him enough time to catch a breath before the next wave violently rocked him again. When the second wave finally released him, he was rescued by one of the locals, Dre, who raced in on his jet ski to swoop him out of the impact zone. During the hold downs, we hear audio from the safety crews as they begin the search and rescue.
This dramatic opening provides genuine insight into the reality of the big wave scene, where surfers often traverse the globe chasing swells. Miguel explains, “So many times you have the mindset of, ‘I wanna get a big one. I wanna make it count.’”
But as it goes when your pursuits involve multiple variables, namely fickle weather systems where the stars have to align for favorable conditions, and then your own performance and equipment must be completely on point, things don’t always go according to plan.
After Mavericks, Miguel chases the same swell down to Todos Santos, Mexico. The long drive leaves him exhausted, and his first session there, his first time at the spot, proves difficult. Luckily, he gets another shot, and we get to go along for the ride.
A refreshing element of Swell Diaries is its honest accounting of what it’s really like to commit to the path of being a professional surfer. Miguel doesn’t hold back when describing the ups, downs, and everything in between, from engine failure and pirates in episode one to violent wipeouts, exhaustion, and challenges in episode two. Nevertheless, his reflections are optimistic, and the main thing that comes across is gratitude for the entire experience.
Related: Pirates, Near Disasters, and Perfect Waves
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