The seasons are changing, and the Southern Hemisphere swell season has officially kicked off. And in Hawaii, the first major South Shore swell of the summer has arrived.
One of the wildest moments came not from a surfer, but from an outrigger canoe crew in Honolulu. A viral video making the rounds online shows a canoe catching a few waves at Castle’s before getting caught inside. That’s when things go sideways – quite literally.
The boat gets launched, paddlers are scattered into the whitewater, and the entire scene unfolds in dramatic fashion as the swell surges toward shore.
For longtime Hawaii watermen, however, the sight isn’t entirely out of place.
Outrigger canoe surfing has deep roots in Hawaiian culture. Long before the modern era of surfing, Hawaiians used canoes to travel, fish, and even ride waves. And now, today, experienced crews regularly surf canoes on open-ocean swells, though wipeouts remain part of the game when conditions get serious.
And serious they were.
The same swell that flipped canoes and flooded portions of the Big Island also lit up Oahu’s South Shore. The National Weather Service issued a High Surf Advisory, calling for surf in the 10-to-14-foot range along south-facing shores as a long-period south-southwest swell peaked across the islands.
At Ala Moana Bowls, North Shore local Koa Rothman made the trek across the island, and paddled out into some of the biggest waves so far this season. His latest vlog – “I could’ve died,” he titled – showcases thick walls, heavy sections, and crowded lineups as surfers welcomed the official start of the South Pacific season at the South Shore hotspot.
The swell’s arrival follows its first stop in Tahiti, where Teahupo’o roared to life with practically perfect conditions. Check out the highlights here, here, and here.
Related: Teahupo’o ‘Dream Wave’ Swell Detonates With 20ft Perfection (Video)
Back on Hawaii, amidst the swell, there was also a bit of heightened caution on Oahu’s South Shore. Just days ago, a 38-year-old surfer was seriously injured in a shark encounter near Cromwell’s Beach. Ocean Safety officials later reported aggressive shark activity in the area, including two sharks estimated at eight feet long near the Ala Moana Bowls lineup. Warning signs were subsequently posted along portions of the South Shore.
The good news for surfers is that the season is only getting started.
More South Pacific swell is already lining up, with additional pulses expected to reach Tahiti, Hawaii, and eventually California in the coming days and weeks.
Stay tuned for more, both glory and carnage.
Related: 50-Foot Seas Fuel Rogue Wave Chaos in Hawaii (Video)
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