January 11th saw one of the best paddle days big-wave surfers have seen at Jaws in quite some time. It was massive, glassy, and producing two-story-high tubes for guys like Albee Layer, Billy Kemper and the rest of Pe’ahi’s usual hard-charging suspects. Over the past week, Layer and Take Shelter Productions have been busy stringing together footage from the day that’ll melt your eyeballs. Layer titled the edit–which you can now watch above–”ONE FOR MARCIO”, paying his respects to the late Marcio “Mad Dog” Freire, who passed away while surfing Nazare at the beginning of January.
‘At this point I’ve seen a lot in surfing too many historic moments to count really, but there are a few that changed how I think about surfing and what is possible,” wrote Layer, just shortly after Friere’s passing. “One of those moments was around 2009 or 10 back when we thought jaws was a “tow wave”. It was valentines and very crowded with lots of questionable surfers because anyone can get whipped into a big wave. I was thinking how this needs to change and as I thought that I saw this stalky brazzilian paddling a 10 foot board in the channel with no vest on. Pretty sure the papaya board? Haha then he went over to the left in the middle of all the jet ski mayhem and paddled a couple absolute bombs. Changed everything I thought was possible in surfing in an instant.”
The swell that hit Jaws in the edit above was referred to by many as the Marcio swell, as it was the first XXL days since his passing. Hit play above to see Layer’s fearless homage to Mad Dog in the form of some of the best paddle rides we’ve seen in awhile.
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