By Rebecca Parsons
Jackson Dorian is young, strong, confident, fast, agile and progressive. He is the quintessential definition of the new guard. He grew up in Kona, a charming town on the west side of Hawai’i’s Big Island. If you follow surfing, the name Dorian likely rings a bell. Actually that should smash the bell. That could be because sixteen-year-old Jackson himself rips. Or, because he’s the son of legendary surfer Shane Dorian.
The elder Dorian spent eleven years competing on the World Championship Tour, where he earned numerous victories and finished fourth in the world in 1999 and 2000. In 2004, he retired from the tour and shifted his focus to big wave surfing. He went on to receive 10 WSL Big Wave Awards, two Billabong XXL Awards, and in 2010, he designed a safety suit that is now considered standard equipment among big wave surfers and is still absolutely shredding to this day.
It may seem only natural that Shane’s son would follow in his footsteps. Although Jackson was introduced to surfing at an early age, he leaned more towards skateboarding and would regularly be found skating the local streets. Skateboarding was his main passion until he truly discovered surfing and began transitioning from the pavement to the ocean.
“I’ve been on a board with my dad since I was a baby, so I don’t remember that,” says Jackson. “But I do remember surfing solo on one of my dad’s boards. I was addicted to the feeling of improving. I love trying to get better.”
Although the Big Island isn’t as well known for its waves like Oahu or Maui, Kona is home to small, yet powerful fun waves. Jackson’s homebreak is Banyans and while he says that it never gets too big, he says the waves are fun and rippable.
“It looks like he’s having a great time,” says Shane of Jackson’s surfing. “He loves to go fast and he really loves the challenge of improving as a surfer.”
Like his dad, Jackson gravitated toward competition. Growing up, he competed in the HSA and the NSSA.
“They were great learning experiences, because it was tough and I wasn’t really winning them,” says Jackson. “There were always really good kids, especially in the NSSA.”
Like many up-and-coming surfers, Jackson is homeschooled, giving him the flexibility to surf and train throughout the week. A typical week for the teenager consists of surfing twice a day, training twice a week, doing two hours of school a day, and eating a ton (he is a teenage boy, after all). When he’s home, he has a group of local kids that he surfs with under his dad’s guidance. When he’s on the road, he often works with a local coach.
Growing up with Shane Dorian as a father begs the question of whether surfing was Jackson’s passion or his dad’s and if any pressure came along with it.
“It definitely didn’t add pressure,” Jackson says. “More than anything, he taught me to be a better athlete and sped up my learning process. He really didn’t force anything on me, just gave me advice when I asked. I was never trying to get better at surfing for my dad, just for myself.”
“It’s been strange but so fun to watch him over the years,” says Shane. “I’m so happy for him that he’s so passionate about something in his life at such an early age. He asks me for feedback on his surfing and we watch his clips together, but I’m careful not to say too much—no kid wants to hear that stuff from their dad. I encourage him to work with coaches and try to learn as much as he can.”
Jackson is constantly focused on working hard to improve his surfing. Although he hasn’t had any big wins in a while, he hasn’t been deterred and continues to enter as many contests as he can to continue to better himself. Currently, he’s been entering WSL junior and QS events.
“I haven’t done really well or anything, but I like the process and surfing against surfers who are better than me,” says Jackson. “It’s fun to challenge yourself in comps. Eventually I’d like to make it on tour, but right now I’m just focused on getting better.”
Thanks to his upbringing, Jackson has had the opportunity to travel to a lot of incredible surf destinations over the years. But he isn’t picky.
“I love surfing in all conditions,” he says. “Even crappy conditions. I like trying to learn how to surf in every condition, and I love to travel but don’t really have favorites.”
As Jackson continues to progress, he hopes to become a well-rounded surfer that is fast and powerful and not afraid to fall. For now, Jackson plans to put all his energy into surfing and see just how far the sport can take him.
“Surfing is definitely my focus,” says Jackson. “I am putting all my energy into surfing. If surfing isn’t for me, then I think I will try to find something I am passionate about and makes me happy.”
“I hope that he always loves the joy of surfing,” says Shane. “I’m so grateful that we’ve had surfing to help us connect on different levels. We’ve traveled together a lot because of surfing. He won’t be young much longer, so I’m considering us very lucky in a lot of ways that we have spent so much time together surfing.”
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