One can try to imagine what it’s like to wipe out and then subsequently take two apartment-sized waves on the head out at a place like Nazare. But our imagination fails us when we’re used to surfing average waves on the daily. Alas, there are guys, like Kai Lenny, who are braver and crazier than the bulk of us to get us digitally up close and personal to a Nazare behemoth. In the first episode of the second season of Red Bull’s “Life of Kai”, Mr. Lenny scores the day of big-wave days at Praia do Norte–but not without paying a price. As you notice at the 13:40-ish mark, Lenny deals with a wipeout that makes him feel like he’s “getting hit by a semi-truck, holding your breath and then getting beaten up by guys with 15 crowbars”. Seeing the whole thing go down via the GoPro angle will hijack your amygdala, but it’s worth a watch to truly appreciate what big-wave men and women deal with when they paddle out each session.
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